Author: Gayatri Deka
In the realm of Bharatanatyam, the visual spectacle is not only shaped by the intricate movements and expressive storytelling but also by the resplendent costumes and jewellery worn by the dancers. Every thread and every ornament contributes to the rich tapestry of Bharatanatyam, reflecting the cultural, symbolic, and aesthetic nuances of this classical dance form.
The Artistry of Costume Design:
Bharatanatyam costumes are a visual feast, designed with precision to enhance the beauty of the dancer’s movements. The attire consists of several key elements, each carefully chosen for its significance and impact.
1. The Angavastram:
- A draped piece of cloth is worn over the main costume.
- Symbolises purity and devotion.
- Enhances the overall visual appeal with its graceful draping.
2. The Sari or Pyjama and Jacket:
- The main body of the costume.
- The colour and design of the sari or pyjama and jacket vary, often reflecting the theme of the performance.
- The flowing fabric accentuates the dancer’s movements, adding fluidity to the dance.
3. The Belt:
- Worn around the waist.
- Adds a decorative element and emphasises the waist movements, a crucial aspect of Bharatanatyam.
4. The Panchakacham:
- A traditional male costume sometimes worn by female dancers.
- Consists of a dhoti, angavastram, and a jacket.
- Adds a touch of androgyny, allowing for diverse character portrayals.
The Intricate Language of Jewellery:
Bharatanatyam jewellery is not just an embellishment but a language in itself, conveying messages of tradition, spirituality, and storytelling.
1. The Headpiece (Maang Tikka):
- Worn on the forehead.
- Represents the third eye and symbolises spiritual awakening.
- Adds a regal touch to the dancer’s appearance.
2. The Earrings (Jhumkas):
- Large, bell-shaped earrings.
- Emphasise facial expressions and add a melodic touch to the dance.
3. The Necklace (Short and Long):
- Short necklaces adorn the neck, while long necklaces cascade down the chest.
- Symbolise auspiciousness and add grace to the dancer’s upper body movements.
4. The Nose Ring (Nath):
- A distinctive ornament worn on one side of the nose.
- Represents beauty and femininity.
5. The Armlets (Vanki):
- A distinctive ornament worn on one side of the nose.
- Represents beauty and femininity.
6. The Waist Belt (Odiyanam):
- An ornate belt worn around the waist.
- Highlights the intricate footwork and adds a decorative element to the costume.
7. The Anklets (Ghungroo or Salangai):
- Strings of bells worn around the ankles.
- Create a rhythmic soundtrack to the dance, enhancing the percussive elements.
Symbolism in Colour:
Colours play a pivotal role in Bharatanatyam costumes, each hue carrying cultural and symbolic significance.
1. Red:
- Symbolises passion, love, and the divine.
- Often worn for performances depicting deities or romantic themes.
2. Yellow:
- Represents auspiciousness and energy.
- Commonly worn for celebratory and joyful performances.
3. Green:
- Signifies nature and fertility.
- Chosen for performances depicting landscapes or nature-inspired themes.
4. White:
- Symbolises purity and devotion.
- Frequently worn for performances with spiritual or devotional themes.
5. Blue:
- Represents the vastness of the cosmos.
- Worn for performances with cosmic or celestial themes.
Experience the Elegance – Join Natyam School of Dance
At our Bharatanatyam School in Dwarka, we delve into the intricate world of Bharatanatyam, celebrating the vibrant traditions that make this dance form a visual and cultural masterpiece. Our expert instructors guide students through the nuances of costume selection, helping them understand the symbolism behind every colour and ornament.
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Frequently Asked Questions about Bharatanatyam Attire
1. What is the purpose of the pleated fan-like piece in the Bharatanatyam costume?
That beautiful fan-shaped piece, often called the visari, is a key feature of the modern Bharatanatyam costume. Its primary purpose is to accentuate the signature Aramandi (half-sitting) posture, creating a beautiful geometric shape between the legs. When the Bharatanatyam dancer executes dynamic movements like jumps or turns, this fan opens up, adding a spectacular visual flair and highlighting the grace of the footwork.
2. Are the colours of the costume chosen by the dancer, or do they have a specific meaning for each performance?
It is a thoughtful combination of both. Colours are deeply symbolic and are often chosen to align with the theme and emotion (bhava) of the dance piece. For example, a dancer might choose a vibrant red for a piece about love (shringara) or a serene white for a devotional item. Within that framework, the artist chooses specific shades and combinations that are aesthetically pleasing and suit the particular choreography.
3. What are the bells worn on the ankles, and why are they so important?
Those bells are called Ghungroo or Salangai, and they are absolutely essential to the dance. They serve a dual purpose. Firstly, they are a percussive instrument; they make the intricate rhythm of the footwork audible, creating a beautiful dialogue with the musician’s drum. Secondly, they are considered sacred. We treat them with great respect, and the act of tying them before a performance is a ritual in itself.
4. Do male and female Bharatanatyam costumes differ?
Yes, they do have distinct traditional forms. The female costume is typically the sari-style pyjama with the fan, which is what most people recognise. The traditional male costume is called a Panchakacham, which consists of a dhoti draped in a specific way, often paired with an Angavastram (upper cloth). However, the use of vibrant silk fabrics and traditional temple jewellery is common to both.
5. Is the traditional temple jewellery worn by dancers made of real gold?
While the designs are inspired by the real gold ornaments used to adorn temple deities, the jewellery worn by dancers today is typically not solid gold. It is usually made from a base metal, expertly plated in gold, and often set with semi-precious stones. This makes the pieces lightweight and durable enough for vigorous performances, whilst retaining their magnificent and authentic appearance.
6. How does the specific design of the costume help the dancer’s movements?
Every element of the costume is designed for both beauty and function. The pyjama-style bottom allows for complete freedom of leg movement, which is essential for the deep Aramandi and high kicks. The waist belt, or Odiyanam, draws attention to the subtle movements of the torso and hips. The entire design is crafted to highlight, not hinder, the geometric lines and sculptural poses of the dance.
7. As a beginner student, what should I wear to my first Bharatanatyam class?
You certainly do not need a full performance costume for a class! Comfort and freedom of movement are key. I always recommend my new students wear a simple, comfortable cotton salwar kameez or a pair of leggings with a knee-length kurti. We always dance barefoot to ensure a proper connection with the floor, which is essential for mastering the footwork.
8. What is the spiritual significance of the headpiece (Maang Tikka) and the dots on the forehead?
The Maang Tikka and the red bindi are placed on the forehead at the location of the Ajna Chakra, or the “third eye.” In Indian philosophy, this is the centre of wisdom, intuition, and spiritual insight. For the dancer, it serves as a powerful focal point for their energy and expressions, drawing the audience’s attention to the subtle and emotive language of their face.
9. Has the Bharatanatyam costume changed much over the last century?
Yes, it has evolved significantly. The form we see most often today, with its multiple stitched pieces, was largely popularised in the 20th century for the proscenium stage. It was adapted from the traditional nine-yard sari worn by temple dancers to allow for greater durability and freedom of movement during more athletic, modern choreography.
10. How does a dancer learn about the correct costume and jewellery to wear for a specific performance?
This is an important part of a dancer’s training and is guided by the guru. The choice of costume, colours, hairstyle, and even the specific jewellery is discussed in relation to the character and theme of the dance item. For example, the adornments for a piece depicting the goddess Lakshmi would be different from one depicting a simple devotee. This knowledge is passed down as part of the holistic education in the art form.
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